Flamingos

April 26, 2015 by Michael

Flamingos are beautiful. Adorned in a cloak of pink and white, they have a regal appearance. Their long legs and graceful neck make them truly elegant as well.

Flamingos conjure up warm feelings in everyone however Paula and I had to brave sub-zero temperatures and a severe lack of oxygen when trying to locate the breeding location of the James’ Flamingo in the high Andes. We drove to nearly 15,000ft, across endless salt flats to reach Laguna Pujsa in northern Chile, arriving just as night fell.

Laguna Pujsa, Chile

Laguna Pujsa, Chile

Overnight ice formed around us as we slept and we woke at dawn half frozen. The sight that greeted us was worthwhile. We found ourselves in an amphitheatre of Andean mountains surrounding an ultramarine lake encrusted with white saline deposits and upon this ‘stage’ thousands of dancing pink flamingos!

Uno anfiteatro andino con flamencos

Uno anfiteatro andino con flamencos

The James’ or Puna Flamingo is the smallest of the three species in South America. They breed in the highest zones of the altiplano in Argentina, Chile and Bolivia and so isolated are they, that their breeding grounds were not discovered until the mid 1950s.

James, Flamingo or Parina Chica.

James’ Flamingo or Parina Chica.

James’ feed on blue-green algae and diatoms whose populations fluctuate according to the season and water quality of the high mountain lakes. So when looking for these nomadic birds one can travel for days to known sites and yet find none. Paula and I had struck lucky.

The hardy flamingos have had 65 million years to adapt to their environment and have a combination of feathers that satisfy their three requirements;

Flight –

Un Flamenco en vuelo

Un Flamenco en vuelo

Display –

Los colores hermanos de un Flamenco

Los colores hermanos de un Flamenco

and Warmth –

Una pluma de un flamenco

Las plumas especiales de un flamenco dan aislamiento thermico

A close relative of the James’ Flamingo is the Andean Flamingo, the relationship is based on the similarity in bill structure and feeding strategy.

Un Parina Grande esta comiendo

Un Parina Grande esta comiendo

In deeper water, flamingos will dabble their feet to stir up the water and food. This in turn can attract other birds like this Wilsons Phalarope.

Falaropo comun esta comiendo cerca un Flamenco Austral

Falaropo comun esta comiendo cerca un Flamenco Austral

The Andean Flamingo breeds lower down in the Andes but still in the shadow of the snow-capped Volcanic peaks.

The third species of Flamingo to be found in the Andes is the Chilean Flamingo, this species is different from the James’ and Andean as it feed on tiny molluscs and crustaceans.

Los Flamencos chilenos en la Puna (3500m)

Los Flamencos chilenos en la Puna (3500m)

The size of Flamingos means that they need to run along the surface of the water to take-off.

Un Flamenco a punto de despegar

Un Flamenco a punto de despegar

This makes them vulnerable to predators, particularly at night when they roost in large groups out in the saline lagunas.

Un zorro con su victim !

Un zorro con su victima !

The High Andes is a hostile environment. This fox is fortunate as the flamingo will feed its family for several days. Paula and I saw this fox with its prey in the very early morning so the fox had probably been out hunting all night.

Unlike the flamingos, we were not so acclimatized to the environment. The thin air made it difficult to breathe and outside the freezing wind buffeted our camera tripods, so after a day watching the birds, we reluctantly descended to a lower altitude.

Michael and Paula

Michael and Paula

Penguin Islands

March 20, 2015 by Michael

These islands are so good: we have to tell you about them.

For any visiting families, naturalists, wildlife enthusiasts, photographers or birdwatchers they are a ‘must visit location’ in Chile; located north of La Serena in region III and officially called Reserva Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt.

The reserve consists of three islands. Two of the islands, Isla Choros and Isla Damas are accessed from the small coastal village of Punta Choros. The road to Punta Chorus from the south, Ruta 5, is a poor 60 km, dirt road, but any vehicle can easily drive the road.

In Punta Choros there are plenty of cabins to hire as well as campsites, restaurants galore and fabulous beaches nearby. Boat trips to the islands maintain the local economy, without which the village would be poor and dependent on sea weed gathering and small scale fishing.

The trips take two and a half hours and most trips spend 1 hour on the Isla Damas.

Isla Choros

Isla Choros

The boats are very well organised and safe. The trips cost 10,000 pesos (£10) per person + 2,500pesos (£2.50) to the parks authority.

Un barco sale del muelle en Punta Choros

Un barco sale del muelle en Punta Choros

The Punta Choros boats look for a school of Bottlenosed Dolphins which are resident in the seas around Isla Choros and Isla Damas.

Una familia mira delfines narizes de botella

Una familia mira delfines narizes de botella

Delfin nariz de botella

Delfin nariz de botella

These trips also manage to get you close to large numbers of birds, such as Guanay Cormorants, of which there are tens of thousands.

Una colonia de Guanays

Una colonia de Guanays

Guanay

Guanay

Red-legged Cormorants, one of South America’s most beautiful sea birds.

Cena para Lile polluelos

Cena para Lile polluelos

Peruvian Boobies –

: Dos Piqueros

and of course, what everyone wants to see, Humboldt Penguins. The Isla Choros holds 70% of the world’s population of these captivating birds.

Pinguino de Humboldt

Pinguino de Humboldt

Most boats then go to Isla Damas and allow visitors to stay for an hour.

Isla Damas

Isla Damas

Sometimes there is no rain for years in this area, it is a desert, but a very special desert, a coastal desert where moisture only comes from the unique morning fog blown ashore from the Humboldt current – the Camanchaca.

Were it not for this ethereal and bountiful phenomenon there would be no plantlife whatsoever, as it is these islands and the neighbouring mainland are a wonderland of cacti.

El cactus esta cubierto de liquen

El cactus esta cubierto de liquen

To facilitate the retention of moisture the cacti are covered with lichen, a symbiotic relationship. The grey lichen drapes around the cacti. From a distance this gives the island a ghostly appearance as if some deadly disease had invaded the plants, the truth being that this is nature’s way to enable the cacti to survive.

To reach the island of Chanaral a short drive round the coast to the village of Chanaral de Acietuno is required. The village is small and less popular but the boat trips are very special and just as good as from Punta Choros.

Un barco sale el Puerto de Chanaral de Acietuno

Un barco sale el Puerto de Chanaral de Acietuno

There is no landing on an island but the wildlife is spectacular especially for marine mammals. Three species of Whale are regularly seen, Fin, Humpback and the mighty Blue.

Ballena jorobada

Ballena jorobada

Colonies of Sea lion breed around the rocky coast

Lobo marino de un pelo

Lobo marino de un pelo

Even the less common Fur seal can be found, (look at that pointed snout) –

Lobo fino de dos pelos

Lobo fino de dos pelos

and of course there are plenty of Humboldt Penguins

Pinguino de Humboldt

Pinguino de Humboldt

as well as their chief predator, the Sea Otter.

Nutria de mar, Chungungo.

Nutria de mar, Chungungo.

Sea Otters will take young Penguins and so the adults are forced to nest above the tops of the cliffs on the top of the island out of reach of the otters. It is a large island so that is no problem for the Penguins except that to reach the sea they have to walk all the way down the cliffs, a good job they have better legs than wings!

Toads, a town council and trouble

March 3, 2015 by Michael

The Giant Chilean Toad, sometimes referred to as the Gay’s Frog is endemic to Chile. It’s an amiable monster of an animal, with adult females measuring over 50cm. Like all amphibians the world over the population of this animal has been declining at an alarming rate.

In the past this huge toad has been captured for eating as a local delicacy and many others exported as part of the international animal trade.

Nowadays the problem is even greater, one of habitat loss. The toads’ range in central Chile overlaps with the richest land, land now brimming over with orange and lemon groves, plantations of peaches and nectarines and hillsides of vines for the finest Chilean wines, all these grown for the insatiatiable demand from UK and North American supermarkets.

One day the ‘Frog Squad’ had an urgent request to visit the town of Villa Alemana northwest of Santiago, where a population of these giant frogs were endangered and we were asked to join them.

We all met somewhat surreptitiously in a café to hear the story from a group of locals including a journalist, and teacher, who told us about some huge frogs that inhabited a stream that flowed through the town.

The animals made a lot of noise, some people liked them, some not and others still thought the stream in which they lived was dirty and untidy, the locals were all in dispute about the situation, so the council decided to dredge the stream and ‘clean it up’.

Encuentro en un restaurante

Encuentro en un restaurant

Environmentally sympathetic individuals had spoken to officials, who seemed oblivious to the presence or welfare of the animals.

However local children liked the frogs, they thought the frogs were beautiful, remembering that a far-away princess had even married one !

To the embarrassment of the local council the children ‘adopted ‘ a bridge over the stream and covered it with images of nature and the frogs.

Mural pintado por ninos

Mural pintado por ninos

This is a common story the world over and one that we ourselves had experienced in our home town of Loughborough in England twenty years ago. In Loughborough they wanted to dredge and channelize the Woodbrook stream, home to nesting kingfishers and bank voles.

In Loughborough then, as now in Villa Alemana, what was needed was a little pressure from the public, some publicity in the local press and some expert advice on how to solve the issue to everyone’s satisfaction.

The Frog Squad were to give the expert advice, but first they had to establish the presence and identification of the animals in danger. So that night we went ‘frogging’.

The stream was in a deep cutting through the town.

El arroyo en Villa Alemana

El arroyo en Villa Alemana

We sploshed and waded through the water, sometimes thick with vegetation. There were lots of small native fish, this was clearly a rich habitat for the gentle giant as it requires extensive aquatic vegetation in which to breed.

Gradually as darkness descended we started to see the protruding eyes of these friendly ‘giants’. They were secretive and hugged the overhangs of the banks. With wet feet and wetter arms we eventually caught one of the gentle giants and confirmed its identity, a rare Chilean Giant Toad (Calyptocephalella gayi)

This giant has the most enormous protruding eyes and powerful legs.

Mira esos ojos !

Mira esos ojos !

We found a small population of these wonderful creatures that evening and the Frog squad agreed to back the locals, so with that added scientific proof, hopefully the frogs will have their habitat safeguarded.

Their findings agreed with a report in a local newspaper. The Frog Squad strikes again !

El peloton de ranas al socorro

El peloton de ranas al socorro

In a country where environmental matters are secondary and the concept of protecting ‘urban wildlife ‘ is almost unheard of, it is a pleasure to witness local people actively concerned about their own wildlife.

Amphibian adventures

February 20, 2015 by Michael

Frogs and toads are in deep trouble the world over.

A deadly Chytrid fungus has been decimating their numbers worldwide for a decade and continues unabated. Habitat loss and ignorance of their importance has likewise further diminished their populations.

Chile has an impressive 57 species and most are severely threatened. We met up with a young trio of amphibian experts from the University of Santiago who are working to protect them, Ismael, Fernanda and Marta. We call them the ‘frog squad’.

Over the millennia the isolation of many Andean valleys promoted endemism.

Amphibians require a rare combination of unpolluted water and tranquil pools in which to lay their eggs.

They are beset by many difficulties. The introduction of alien predators, such as the African Toad and fish for sport fishing, habitat loss from building of roads and ski resorts, but most of all the lack of unpolluted water. Water is a scarce resource. Global warming is altering the rate of water flow off the Andean glaciers and the huge mining industry can easily pollute local supplies.

Some amphibian species take several years for the eggs and tadpoles to mature into breeding adults.

Using only the stars to guide us through the dead of night we and the Frog Squad would search high Andean streams and pools in the hope of finding these elusive creatures amid the slippery stones and boulders. Occasionally we would be rewarded with the discovery of a beautiful individual frog.

The Sapo de Rulo (Rhinella arunco) is one of the more common, but still endemic, species of Chilean frogs, the juvenile of which is spotted red.

In the Farellones valley we found the endangered Sapo De Pecho Espinoso De La Parva, known only from this one site. The individual below has two rough pads on its belly, showing it to be a male.

Some days later we visited the Rio Los Cipreses National Reserve. The steep sided mountains plunge down to the Rio Cipreses which itself is a tributary of the mighty Rio Cachapoal.

Both these rivers are fed by glaciers high up in the Andes which are retreating at an alarming rate every year.

In a marsh close to the river Cachapoal we found the small Arriero frog. It is named because of its penetrating call which is similar to that made by a herdsman (“Arriero” in Spanish) when calling for his animals over the scrubby mountainsides.

The Arriero is a threatened species and is otherwise called the ‘four-eyed frog’ as it has two false eye patterns on its backside.

The evidence shows that all species of amphibians are declining rapidly in South America.

Ismael, Fernanda and Marta are among a small group of experts in Chile. Their work in understanding the ecology of the various species is vital, they are conservation heroes!

The ‘dancing’ Sea Star

February 19, 2015 by Michael

Paula and I have had close encounters with the second largest animal on the planet, the Fin Whale, on several occasions. The nutrient rich waters of the Humboldt Current attract them as well as many other large mammals and seabirds to the Chilean coast.

Rorcual comun

Rorcual comun

Whales and Dolphins, Sea Otters and most other mammals are identifiable as individuals and we know them to be highly social in their behaviour. Rarely do we attribute these traits to the lower groups of smaller animals but soon we were to be surprised by meeting one such special animal.

We wanted to spend some time looking for the animal life upon which the marine profusion of larger animals depended. South of the city of Copiapo, we located an isolated area on the coast to spend a few days. Its small white beach was comprised of crushed shells thrown up by periodic winter storms whilst the daily cycle of tides swept the rocky, seaweed fringed shore, refreshing a myriad of translucent rock pools.

Nuestro camping a Los Burros

Nuestro camping a Los Burros

Peruvian Boobies, Neotropic Cormorants and Pelicans patrolled offshore, but it was the rocks and the rock pools which attracted us.

We would wait till the turn of the tide to start our searching over the black slippery boulders and we weren’t alone. This was feeding time in the intertidal zone, two species of birds appeared as if from nowhere, each seeking food from entirely different niches. Blackish Oystercatchers would probe deep into crevices for shellfish such as oysters.

Pilpilen negro

Pilpilen negro

Whilst the Seaside Cinclodes would almost creep over the rocks, extracting small invertebrates with its narrow slightly de-curved bill.

Churrete costero

Churrete costero

As the tide receded and more of the rocks appeared so crabs started to emerge from hidden recesses and climb up onto the rocks and graze on the algae.

Un cangrejo come alga

Un cangrejo come alga

At the slightest movement from us the crabs would dart for cover, but if we sat quietly they would approach so close we could eye each other up.

El ojo de un cangrejo

El ojo de un cangrejo

We scrambled with difficulty over the slithery rocks in our searches, peering into the ‘crystal ball’ like pools of water, never knowing what was to be revealed to us. Brightly coloured sea anemones were usually the first to appear, their tentacles waving in the retreating water. The most common was a small crimson one, but in deeper water there were larger orange ones and another even larger, as blue as the midnight sky.

Sea anemones are predators and we noticed that many tiny animals steered well clear of their waving tentacles, not so this particular small crustacean, no doubt protected by its hard outer covering.

Anemona y crustaceo

Anemona y crustaceo

An even larger crustacean, a type of prawn, hid in the darker recesses of the pools. This animal was simply gorgeous, red and black and studded with bright white and sky blue dots.

Crustaceo hermoso

Crustaceo hermoso

There were a number of sea stars, (they used to be called starfish even though they are not fish at all, but echinoderms). They are amazing animals, each arm of a sea star, if broken off, has the capacity to regenerate itself into a completely new animal. The biggest we saw had forty arms and was the size of a dinner plate. The undersides of these animals are covered with thousands of tiny suckers as well as thousands of simple legs but despite the number of legs, sea stars move extremely slowly.

Estrella de mar grande

Estrella de mar grande

A much smaller sea star caught our attention, a purple and green five-armed species.

Estrella de mar morada

Estrella de mar morada

This small sea star moved over the rocks much faster than we would have expected, on occasions when another animal touched it, the sea star would react by flipping up one of its arms.

Estrella de mar y crustaceo

Estrella de mar y crustaceo

In other pools we found similar sea stars but none moved as this one did. We continued to watch its antics and after a while the animal started to move its arms about in an erratic way.

This individual seemed as if it simply liked moving about, as it turned, flipped and bounced. We had found our own star, a ‘dancing ‘ sea star!

Un estrella de mar baila

Un estrella de mar baila

Certainly the marine life we found was as rich as we thought it might be, a reflection of the bounty of the Humboldt Current.

As for individualism among animals, maybe after all, the lowliest and smallest of species have characters in their populations and it’s just us humans that do not see or understand the significance of their behaviour.

The Humboldt current

February 5, 2015 by Michael

Travelling north on the Chilean coast has reminded us of being on the Hebridean islands off the west of Scotland.

Below is Isla Choros, Chile.

Both places are in remote locations, sometimes difficult to access, giving visitors a sense of isolation, a rare commodity in this overcrowded world. Both have exotic white beaches and turquoise seas.

Both places are blessed with sea currents which promote a profusion of marine life around them. The seas off the Hebrides are ‘brushed’ by the warm Gulf Stream and despite being at 58 degrees north one can amazingly find Palm trees on the seashore.

The Chilean coast has its own ‘marine’ magic wand, the Humboldt current. The similarities end when comparing both sea currents, the Gulf Stream is a warm current from Mexico which interferes with the cold waters of the arctic, whereas the Humboldt is a cold current flowing from the Antarctic into warm tropical waters.

The Humboldt is an amiable ‘monster’ of a current. As it flows north it splits into two as it reaches Tierra del Fuego. One part flows east,up the Argentinean coast. The other part flows westwards up the Chilean coast – a 1000 mile wide mass of nutrient rich water.

The importance of the Humboldt first became obvious to us as we were seawatching at La Boca.

The sea was absolutely teaming with Shearwaters. Whereas off Western Scotland we were used to seeing hundreds of Shearwaters in a day, here we were seeing tens of thousands at any one time, too many to count.

Sooty Shearwaters mixed in with Pink-footed Shearwaters and the occasional Giant Petrel.

There were great seabird nesting colonies, Pelicans, Peruvian Boobies and Guanay Cormorants .

and not only birds, but marine mammals lke Bottlenosed Dolphins

and pods of Fin Whales, the second largest mammal on the planet.

The effects of the Humboldt current are truly awesome.

The Chilean coast

January 26, 2015 by Michael

We had crossed the Andes from Argentina into Chile and journeyed through its flat, fertile central valley, full of oranges, lemons and rich vineyards.

Then up again into the coastal cordillera from the top of which we could see the whole width of this absurdly thin country.

In front of us now lay the Pacific Ocean. The air that filled our lungs was different, gone was the dust, now a salty scent enticed us towards the blue vastness.

The narrow winding road led us into the village of Horcon and suddenly were surprised to find ourselves at a tiny harbour full of wooden fishing boats.

We had crossed the continent of South America and there, as if to greet us, was a Pelican !

In this part of the world wherever there are fish and fishermen there will likely be Pelicans and Gulls and this village was no exception.

Over the next few weeks we gradually moved south along the coast and found that three species of gull were the most common.

Firstly the Kelp Gull –

Then the Brown-hooded Gull –

And finally the Franklins Gull, although this is a migrant species from North America.

There were few wading birds, except small numbers of Blackish Oystercatcher which are resident all year round.

Through the rushes

January 7, 2015 by Michael

For the last three months we have been travelling through the wild, rugged deserts and impenetrable cloud forests of north western Argentina, but now it was time to leave.

We did so by climbing the circuitous road from Mendoza towards the border with Chile. As soon as we started to descend the western side of the mighty Andes, it was immediately clear we were entering a completely different floristic region; dry arid lands were replaced by forests and streams. The hot dusty desert air had parched and dried our skin, we longed to be at the ocean.

Heading west as quickly as we could, around the northern suburbs of Santiago and crossing the fertile central valley of this thin country, we encountered the mountains that skirt coastal Chile. From their summit the deep blue of the Pacific beckoned.

Following the Rapel river valley we approached the sea near to the village of Navidad and found a small marsh.

La laguna en Navidad

La laguna en Navidad

– over which circled a shower of ‘snowflakes’, nesting egrets.

Garzas boyeras, Garcitas bueyeras, Cattle Egrets

Garzas boyeras, Garcitas bueyeras, Cattle Egrets

Better still, this tiny marsh was the home to a flotilla of Black-necked Swans.

Cisnes de cuello negro , Black-necked Swans

Cisnes de cuello negro , Black-necked Swans

We decided to camp here at the marsh, the ocean would have to wait a little longer.

Nuestro camping en Navidad

Nuestro camping en Navidad

The marsh was fringed by a dense margin of rushes but we found one small spot that cattle used to come to drink, here we set up a hide.

Nuestro observatorio para sacar fotos

Nuestro observatorio para sacar fotos

As we slept at night we could hear the distant rollers pounding the cliffs but on this Chilean marsh we found peace and prolific wildlife.

For three days we watched, through the rushes, as the birds left the marsh in the morning to feed on the estuary and then return in the afternoon to feed their young.

Cisnes de cuello negro, Black-necked Swans.

Cisnes de cuello negro, Black-necked Swans.

Sitting silently, unseen in a hide, keeps you in a constant state of expectant suspense. Marsh sounds are weird, there are croaks, groans, high pitched squeals, sploshes and whooshes. Sometimes there is nothing to watch except the mesmeric reflections in the water.

Los reflejos de los juncos en el agua

Los reflejos de los juncos en el agua

But the life in a marsh is a vibrant one.

Pato real, Pato overo, Chiloe Wigeon.

Pato real, Pato overo, Chiloe Wigeon.

Constantly peering through the vertical lines of the rushes, imagination turns to reality as its inhabitants appear and disappear.

Drifting

Crias de Cisne de cuello negro, Black-necked Swan cygnets.

Crias de Cisne de cuello negro, Black-necked Swan cygnets.

Swimming –

Coipo crias estan jugando, Coypu youngsters playing.

Coipo crias estan jugando, Coypu youngsters playing.

Creeping –

Tagua de frente roja, Gallareta escudete rojo, Red-fronted Coot

Tagua de frente roja, Gallareta escudete rojo, Red-fronted Coot

Fishing –

Huiravillo, Mirasol comun, Striped-backed Bittern.

Huiravillo, Mirasol comun, Striped-backed Bittern.

Balancing –

Trabajador, Junquero, Wren-like Rushbird.

Trabajador, Junquero, Wren-like Rushbird.

And cavorting –

Siete colores , Tachuri siete colores, Many-coloured Rush-tyrant.

Siete colores , Tachuri siete colores, Many-coloured Rush-tyrant.

A few days previously a birdwatcher had said to us that all the birds in Chile were brown and uninteresting. What would he have said had he spent a few hours overlooking this marsh?

What would he have said if he had seen an adult Many-coloured Rush Tyrant ? This tiny reclusive denizen of the rushes would stand up proud in any competition as ‘the most colourful bird in South America’. In Chile it is called ‘siete colores’, the seven colours!

Siete colores, adulto, Tachuri siete-colores, Adult Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant.

Siete colores, adulto, Tachuri siete-colores,
Adult Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant.