A Condor was found near Tafi del Valle, with a damaged wing and half starved. Kind people rescued it and it was looked after by skilled professionals working at Buenos Aires Zoo, for Bioandina, PCCA, as well as volunteers. Now was the time for its release and we were not going to miss it, so back to Tafi we travelled.
The day we arrived we found the mountain where the release was to take place. A long, treacherous and steep track led upwards, past half-built houses and up further still, skirting narrow ridges and onto a vast undulating isolated mountain top. This was a place revered by the local Diaguita community.
We arrived at dawn, a cool morning and though we were over 3000 m up the air was still , the grasses motionless. Rocks leading up to a nearby cairn hid a variety of bulbous, ground hugging cacti, a pair of Andean lapwings eyed us up from a nearby ridge. This was an inspirational landscape, peaceful yet full of tension, surly the right place from which to release the most magnificent of birds.
The next day we returned for the ceremony and release. As we approached the site, cars, motorcycles even small coaches and minibuses scattered the route. As we came over the last ridge we gasped at the gathering on the distant mountain top. Several hundred people had found their way to the. Joining them we circled around the pile of rocks donating the top of the mountain, flags were unfurled, seats for elderly brought out, clearly this was a great celebration for the locals.
Beautifully woven cloths and blankets were brought out upon which sacred and cherished items were laid, feathers, small statues, flower petals, food, wine and colourful stones.
The ceremony was long and detailed, conducted by the head of the Diaguitas. Pachamama was invoked to help support the Condor in its new lease of life. Praises were given for the goodness of the earth, the need for rain for the crops and kindness of the wind for the Condor to soar in the sky.
Eventually the great bird was brought forward.
Immediately before release, incense was lit, small choice foods laid out and incantations spoken. The crowds parted to allow the great bird room to manoeuvre and not feel threatened.
The cage doors were opened and out stepped the giant, one of the most magnificent of birds. It stood proud, reminiscent of its Jurassic ancestors. Onlookers were in awe, would the bird fly ? could the bird fly ?
A minute passed, it seemed like an hour, then with stretched wings casting a shadow over those beneath, the bird slowly walked to the edge –
and flew !
The ‘super’ bird gradually caught the wind and gained height, moving first one way and then another. Around us silence changed to cheers, clapping, hugs and even tears. Many just stood still, watching as the bird became smaller and smaller a dot in the heavens, their own thoughts with the great bird.
Success led to celebration, back in the village a great meal was set out, huge cauldrons of locro, a type of meaty broth was dished out to all, children rode about on horses or played football. Dignitaries on a stage thanked all concerned for making the event possible then musicians took over, singers, drummers and dancers.
All this for a bird, but not just any old bird this was for a CONDOR, the greatest of all birds.