Spectacular birds of the Southern Yungas forests

We have been so astounded by the richness of the Southern Yungas ecoregion that another visit was necessary. This time to the Eco-Portal de la Piedra lodge in the Santa Barbara region, a mountain range east of Calilegua.  The forested mountains are complex, as you progress upwards you pass through a number of ecologically distinct types.

 

 

Southern Yungas forest_

We walked from approximately 1,000m to 2,200m and camped overnight, horses carrying our equipment and food.

 

On hoseback into the Yungas_

The lower slopes are the domain of the iconic Toco Toucan,  here seen flying over the Quebracho canopy, it’s only in these forests and those in Missiones province, especially around Iguacu falls, that this bird can be seen in Argentina.

 

Toco over the canopy

Fruiting trees are a magnet for many tropical forest birds like the Toucan

 

Toco toucan eating

 

 the Scaly-headed Parrot –

 

Scaly-headed Parrot

and the Green-cheeked Parakeet

 

Green-cheeked Parakeet

 

The lower  transitional forest is more humid and comprises many dense thorny acacia shrubs with taller trees such as the Cebil and Laurels. Tropical Kingbirds, Narrow-billed Woodcreepers, Tropical Parulas, Red-eyed Vireos and White-tailed Doves appeared and then disappeared, almost as if the forest absorbed them back into its greenery.  Big colourful birds are outnumbered by tiny indistinct ones, such as  the Tyrannulets –

A Mottled – cheeked Tyrannulet.

 

Mottled-cheeked Tyrannulet

 

We criss-crossed the jungle, following ancient logging trails, dropping down to a stream then up again.  By following precipitous ridges we avoided deep forested ravines, these ridgeways were more open than the forest either side, ideal habitat for the Rufous- collared Nightjar.

 

Rufous-fronted Nightjar

 

At around 1500m we entered the rainforest with its moss draped Myrtles and Ceder trees, tall evergreens that provided a dense canopy,  The thorny acacias disappeared, replaced by luxuriant ferns and here we found the  Black-capped Elaenia & Cinnamon Flycatcher, pictured below.

 

Elainia in the Yungas_

Cinnamon Flycatcher

This was also the home of White-crested and Slaty Elaenias, Grey Flycatchers, inquisitive Plush-coloured Jays, Black-capped Thrushes and  this White-chested Tyrannulet.

 

White-throated Tyrannulet

  as well as the endemic Yellow-striped Brush Finch.

 

Yellow-striped Bush Finch

We passed along a narrow, dark, damp, rock strewn pass and were immediately ‘buzzed’ by the tiniest of birds, the rare and local Blue-capped Puffleg.

 

 

Blue-crested Puffleg

 

The following day we explored the montane ‘alisos’ forest above 2100m, home to the nesting Alder Parrot. Above the trees soared the Andean Condor, but the Alder Parrots were keeping quiet, after all they would have eggs by now, we heard a few in the distance even saw several pairs as they passed over the forest canopy but were unable to find a nest in the time we had.    After the breeding season this endangered parrot moves to the lower Transitional forest for the winter and congregates at large roosting sites.

It seems that if we wish to photograph this wonderful bird we will have to return in the winter also.

Battling with biodiversity

The lush forested hills in the foothills of the Andes in NW Argentina, reaching up to 1700 metres, are an immensely valuable source of water for the agricultural lowlands beneath.  For six months of the year from November, the moisture laden winds blow from the Atlantic. These clouds race across the hot dry chaco plains and then in a series of violent thunderstorms drench the greenery of these slopes.  This ‘vertical’ rain combined with the summer heat creates low ephemeral clouds that drift amid the trees, giving rise to cloud forest.  The ‘gift’ these clouds give to the vegetation is a slow magical release of  moisture ‘horizontal rain’. The trees beneath are clothed in moss, lichens, bromeliads and orchids – this is the Yungas !

 

Selva Yungas forest , Calilegua

 

 We accessed the area along route 83 and spent a week in this wonderland, in the Calilegua National Park.

 Route 83 into Calilegua N P

 

One of the rangers of the park is Nicolas, he lives in the park with his partner Soledad and young child, Andina.

Nicolas

 

The rangers house where Nicolas, Soledad and Andina live.

 

 Rangers house  in Calilegua

 

The richness of this national park is due to the three types of distinct forest it contains. The lower slopes a threatened habitat – Piedmont woodland, a little higher the Selva and higher still the Montana forest.  Steep ravines intersect the whole, giving rise to a multitude of complex micro-climates, ecosystems and wildlife.

Swallow-tailed Kite

Swallow-tailed Kite

 

Female Red-brocket deer

Female Red-brocket deer

Rusty-browed Warbling-Finch

Rusty-browed Warbling-Finch

 

 

A dozen lifetimes would not be enough time to see and understand its unique flora and fauna. We could but only raise our binoculars and cameras to that which passed us by, marvelling at the wonders that crossed our path.

Calilegua butterfly

 

Bee
Bee

Where ever we walked the variety of nature exploded before us with vibrancy and energy.  We battled to identify what we could, but the odds were overwhelming.   Insects that looked like Crane flies but were multi-coloured and hopped on the ground.  Birds that sang and called but tantalisingly remained hidden in the dense foliage, flocks of parrots that flew noisily overhead.  Trees of every hue, some small and leggy,  others massive that soared into the heavens, this was the Southern Yungas  eco-region.