We have been so astounded by the richness of the Southern Yungas ecoregion that another visit was necessary. This time to the Eco-Portal de la Piedra lodge in the Santa Barbara region, a mountain range east of Calilegua. The forested mountains are complex, as you progress upwards you pass through a number of ecologically distinct types.
We walked from approximately 1,000m to 2,200m and camped overnight, horses carrying our equipment and food.
The lower slopes are the domain of the iconic Toco Toucan, here seen flying over the Quebracho canopy, it’s only in these forests and those in Missiones province, especially around Iguacu falls, that this bird can be seen in Argentina.
Fruiting trees are a magnet for many tropical forest birds like the Toucan
The lower transitional forest is more humid and comprises many dense thorny acacia shrubs with taller trees such as the Cebil and Laurels. Tropical Kingbirds, Narrow-billed Woodcreepers, Tropical Parulas, Red-eyed Vireos and White-tailed Doves appeared and then disappeared, almost as if the forest absorbed them back into its greenery. Big colourful birds are outnumbered by tiny indistinct ones, such as the Tyrannulets –
A Mottled – cheeked Tyrannulet.
We criss-crossed the jungle, following ancient logging trails, dropping down to a stream then up again. By following precipitous ridges we avoided deep forested ravines, these ridgeways were more open than the forest either side, ideal habitat for the Rufous- collared Nightjar.
At around 1500m we entered the rainforest with its moss draped Myrtles and Ceder trees, tall evergreens that provided a dense canopy, The thorny acacias disappeared, replaced by luxuriant ferns and here we found the Black-capped Elaenia & Cinnamon Flycatcher, pictured below.
This was also the home of White-crested and Slaty Elaenias, Grey Flycatchers, inquisitive Plush-coloured Jays, Black-capped Thrushes and this White-chested Tyrannulet.
as well as the endemic Yellow-striped Brush Finch.
We passed along a narrow, dark, damp, rock strewn pass and were immediately ‘buzzed’ by the tiniest of birds, the rare and local Blue-capped Puffleg.
The following day we explored the montane ‘alisos’ forest above 2100m, home to the nesting Alder Parrot. Above the trees soared the Andean Condor, but the Alder Parrots were keeping quiet, after all they would have eggs by now, we heard a few in the distance even saw several pairs as they passed over the forest canopy but were unable to find a nest in the time we had. After the breeding season this endangered parrot moves to the lower Transitional forest for the winter and congregates at large roosting sites.
It seems that if we wish to photograph this wonderful bird we will have to return in the winter also.
